Our schedule for today is to go visit the DMZ, the DeMilitarized Zone, between the Republic of Korea, "South Korea" as most of the world knows this small country, and the Democratic Republic of Korea, "North Korea".
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Korean_Demilitarized_Zone
The DMZ is a two-kilometer barrier between the two combatant countries. Technically, the Korean War is still going on and we are all just in a cease-fire/armistice. This situation creates a psychotic situation of actually being at war but trying to live a normal life, well, at least in the south side. In the middle of this DMZ is Panmunjom, the small complex where the cease-fire was finally signed in 1953 and is the place where the two countries can communicate with each other without firing bullets. It is one of the most heavily manned and fortified areas in the world. There are thousands and thousands of soldiers stationed on either side of this man-made demarcation line.
We always start with a hearty breakfast. The breakfast buffet here is good and has all the requisite things... omelet station, eggs, bacon, pancakes, potatoes, veggies, fruits, juices, and all the coffee you can drink! So, it's a good, solid start to the day.
Here's my Beautiful Girl enjoying a good breakfast in the comfy dining room.
Going out to the bus!
No matter where you go in Seoul, it's so very, very crowded and congested. The traffic is truly a limiter in so many ways. Despite an outstanding subway system, an abundant metro bus system, and taxis galore, the "car mentality" of America has migrated and infected Korea. The Koreans have such a vaunted sense of pride that if you don't drive a car, well, you must be a "nobody". And, of course, the kind of car reflects who you (think) you are... so many foreign cars in the land of Hyundai, Kia and other in-country manufacturers. Again, that damn Korean "pride" or arrogance. So, the roads are clogged nearly 24/7 and it can't help the health of the people. Drivers here are quite a bit more aggressive, less polite, and are rude in many ways compared to the Japanese drivers. In other words, they drive like the Americans who taught them to drive.
The level of growth in every place, the mushrooming of high rises and the cancerous spread from the center of Seoul outwards to 30 or 50 miles from the center is totally amazing, awesome, mind-boggling, unbelievable, and stupid.
Korea has a total population of about 53 million people in the ROK. 27 million of them live within 50 miles of the city center. That's a higher concentration of people than most major metropolitan areas of the world. Over one half of Korea's population lives in and directly around the city center. This high concentration of people is just one huge target for any potential enemy. And, the growth continues... there are high rises in every direction from the city center... northwards the build-up is unchecked despite the DMZ. Eastward is moving out at a break-neck pace. Southward is unlimited and now is conjoining many former suburbs into the greater metropolitan Seoul.
In all honesty, I could NOT live here anymore. It truly is a rat race and a disaster waiting to happen. Any kind of pandemic would get millions of people. Unbelievable!!!
This is the view of N Seoul Tower, formerly known as the Namsan Tower... a key reference point around the city.
The build up of high rises in every direction... every!
The traffic is, well, stupid. Need more control over the cars... maybe an odd and even system and mandatory carpooling and ... well, none of that will work since the voters are still able to control the elections somewhat... The Koreans are as willing to carpool and give up their cars as any American... NOT MY CAR!
After an hour plus drive we came to the DMZ. Various rules apply in this heavily militarized zone. There is no play here, it's a war zone and the soldiers try to take it serously. Here is a guard near the border... yeah, tough and ready to rumble.
After a thorough briefing, along with a bit of history, we were escorted to the main Panmunjom building where the negotiations are held. This is where the armistice was finally signed in 1953 after two years of wrangling and nitpicking negotiations.
Here's my darling in the North Korean side of the building. This is the only place in Korea where you can step into North Korea while being guarded by UN troops and watched over North Korean soldiers. This was my third visit, but the first for my Darling, so a bit of stress for her!
Most of the group did make into North Korea, at least for a moment, and the pictures show the guard at the North Korean end to protect us from any North Koran interference.
Two North Korean guards were standing just outside during our visit. There are supposed to be just 30 armed guards on each side, but sometimes the North side cheats... well, often.
Amazingly, there was also a tour being done at the same time by the North Korean side. Our guide/escort stated that, normally, the coordinated schedule has only one side bringing tourist here to Panmunjom... but today was unique and these Chinese tourists even waved to us!
We moved out of the building and got a bigger picture of the complex.
My Darling with her back to the north! Note the visitors on the North Korean side, the UN guards near us and the North Korean guards in dark uniform along the buildings.
My Sweetheart outside the MAC building, where we just had been.
Then we went to visit another observation point, had a very late lunch at Imjinak... where the "Freedom Bridge" is located. This is where the last trains ran from the communist North Koreans and the Soviets, bringing over a million people to freedom in the south.
This is a sweeping panorama of the view into North Korea. Doesn't look any different, but the bare border of the Demarcation line, the barbed wires, the armed soldiers... yeah, there's a war zone here.
This visit has been illuminating and enlightening in many, many ways. In just a few days I have seen the millions of ways that Korea has changed, both for good and for not so good. Good in the expansion of liberty and rights of the people, with a much more liberal government in charge right now. In fact, the South Korean President Moon went to the North Korean capital for the third Presidential summit with their young leader. I, and I'm sure many, many Koreans wish and dream of the day of a good reunification of the two countries. But, I believe, that will have to wait for all of this and the next generation to pass first. There are too many memories and too many barriers in every field. The North still lives in the 1950's. The South is a powerhouse in many areas and is a leader in technology and industrial growth. I can only hope and wish that there will never be another war and that these highly intelligent peoples can come to the negotiation tables and work out a reasonable path to reunification.
The other option is just too horrible to even contemplate!
Tomorrow is a "free day" for us. So, my Love and I are going to take an early bullet train to Busan, the city at the end of the peninsula, where I last remembered my Father, my Appa, and what little family I had. I do remember the neighborhood, so, we'll walk around there for a bit, get some good seafood, and then come back to Seoul on the returning bullet train.
Pray for us to be safe and that God will protect and guide us. God always does, but sometimes we are too foolish!
Anyway, this has been a very difficult but wonderful trip thus far and we have enjoyed many of the sights.
See you tomorrow. Stay well, stay in God's love, mercy, and grace.
Know we love you and pray for you!
Much love,
casey
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